A pure dud of a week surf-wise here up north, after some rare pieces of grind reported last weekend. Small swell washed through Bundo too, much to the surprise of many.

Loads of talk instead of swims, parties, festivals, spear-fishing and lorry pulling … but very very little clean surf. And it looks set to stay that way. The lulls must end soon, and sure it’s only a few weeks till we brace ourselves for the famed September Swells … perchance to dream …

Good luck to Ger McCauley of this parish, and the fair Kirsty, off to Sctoland to be wed later this week. Then home to Erin for the honeymoon.

Nice. Some other stuff …

Friday Afternoon Wave

Derry/Donegal regular Shamus Harkin is recently returned from his surfodyssey in Bali, where it was picture perfect almost every day.

“I got some great sessions and also got plenty of beatings. This dude is at Ulu’s .”

Al to face Nelscott

Local big wave maestro Al Mennie mailed this week. He and Cotty have been accepted to represent Ireland as one of only 13 global teams at the Nelscott Tow In. This is big bickies. The Nelscott reef (near Lincoln City) went 50 foot last year. This is the only pro comp in Oregon, and its all the more interesting because this year there’s a swim-in big wave comp as well – ie no jetskis.

Mad, the lotta them … Check the competition list … Gerlach, Bruhwiler, Parsons etc…

Al: “ … It’s funny how far it’s come…. I remember doing an interview with you about four years ago when I won the mananan biggest wave. At the time it was like an 18ft face and everyone was stoked on it, since then we have raised the bar up … ”

Best wishes to the boys … they continue to make a major impression on the global surf scene. Its only a matter of time I reckon before Al gets a full invite to the Eddie in Hawaii.

NWSC Update

The big surf-swim happened locally last weekend from Ballymackstocker to Port Salon. Iain mails that “Although only a handful of people took part, the club raised over €1300 for the Lough Swilly RNLI”.

Wake Boarder Injured

Serious injury and rescue earlier this week in Fermanagh.

Tyrella Stranding

A porpoise was washed up in Co Down this week. Detail on that and some good general info here too.

Beached Whale

Another beaching overnight. This time an 8 metre whale in Hampshire.

Shark Spotters

Dudes in Cornwall want people to help them spot sharks.

Gigs

~ Muff Festival on all weekend (don’t even go there, I mean DO go there, …. heres the website: www.mufffestival.com ). Jay does the photocomp, while various local surfers usually have a go at the lorry pulling etc.

~ Ex Schtum sticksman Rory McCarron mails that
“Triggerman will be playing at Masons tonight, 1st August at 8:15pm as part of the Gasyard Wall Féile”.
Triggerman are a hard rock outfit from Derry. Balding… metallists … loud…. Much loved legends many would say. Ballad and EMO free zone 4sure.

Catch plenty…

m

It’s happening. Along with yeller forsythia buds, the lineups are starting to come to life again. The evening light is here again till October, and with it, surfers of all abilities return to the water in increasing numbers. People complain about summer surf crowds. Personally I don’t mind. Great to renew friendships in the water, and to feel the embrace of full Spring. Life enhancing for sure.

Last Saturday Ger, Keith, Skint and top lidsman Steven and his mate had peeling sunny head-high perfection all to themselves, Donegal. The Port Open got some shred too, but breezy. No real heat in the water yet – shes still Baltic. Only a matter of time till this winter low of 9C gives way to endless boot free possibilities. Talking of winter – a chance of sleet this weekend, dammit.

On the positive side though, I just saw Port is up one degree as of today 8C to 9C, so that should be the start of the warming proper.

Welcome to new folks as always.

Some other stuff …

Friday Afternoon Wave

…And it’s a sunny lil’ swimout earlier this week from our man in Cannon Beach, Amhuricay:

“waited for these 2 to catch a wave, but didn’t see it happen….. they did pass on a few nice ones…….”

Gallery 38

Tis up. Featuring Jeffries Bay, Jay Donegal and Port Open.

UK Marine Bill

Long awaited, long consulted, and the implications of UK Marine Bill will be huge if it ever makes it through. The Bill will cover all sorts of things from fisheries, to wind farms, protection zones, sea floors, dolphins etc etc. Most importantly, it deals with the enforcement of environmental laws. Early soundings in the environmental communities seem to be concerned that the Bill wont go far enough in these and other areas. Let’s see…

Stoked

Pete Mayne is home again:

“about 30 degrees colder than Oz but the perfection [here] means you don’t notice it too much”.

Andy Hill (Port Open):

“ … just want to thank Causeway Coast surf Club, ISA, Coleraine Borough Council and everyone who helped in Judging beach marshalling tabulation etc for what was a fantastic event, good surf bit of sunshine and some good surfing, thanks to Adam Frew from flowerfield arts centre who designed the trophies, new pics on Surfing Ireland website.”

Mekenas, Oregon

“Got out this morning, had a ball….. outside sets were overhead and had some juice. best wave of the day was Dreadlock Jim, yacking, and feeding the fish… yep, one of those days…”

Al Mennie Site

Some of you prob have it already, but here’s Al’s site. It has clips of his big wave riding, short films etc, and some footage of that huge Dec 07 action… Nice site.

Penguins – “Miracle of Evolution”

This is the next BBC ‘landmark’ (ie v expensive) natural world series. So, do penguins fly?

Port Open

Cant find the darn results from last weekend anywhere.

Gabe Davies

English surfer, pretty popular over here too. Real nice guy. He’s been made a patron of the new surf museum over in Blighty.

Surf Crime

Gull sent this link to a site that deals with crime againsts surfers in Wales.

Paranoid Park

For skaters, or just film fans, Magic Lantern, Derrys underground cinema club have a screening of Gus Van Sant’s Oregon skate film ‘Paranoid Park’ in Derry this weekend. It’s a movie, not a doc.

“Don’t miss this amazing film showing Sunday 6th April at the Orchard Cinema St. Columb’s Hall at 4pm. Hope to see you there! {encode=”Infomagiclantern@googlemail.com” title=”Rosemary Quinn”}. ”

That’s it.

Chilly tomoz.

Catch plenty…

m

Still the deep heart of winter in theory, but some pretty unseasonal goings on here in Old Ireland. Spring bulbs well out. Hedgehogs not hibernating. Frogs aplenty at Magilligan. And a week in store which is all that: 13C sun, swell, mild south wind – the sort of thing you would grab with both hands in May.

Good luck to Billy, set for a landlocked month in Munich. Otherwise, pretty quiet. February seems to seize up manys the Irish surfer, but not to be housebound have been Roney, jAy, Shim, Skint etc. Heres to Sunday and Monday. Amazing looking charts. I’ll be off for a fortnight now, but will get some updates out when and if…

Some other stuff …

Pacific Waste

This is an amazing story we did on Weds. Listen again online if you want. It seems there’s a cesspool of waste “the size of the US” floating around in a massive circle in the N Pacific. 100 million tonnes of the stuff.

[Added to that was a recent survey here that discovered a massive 40 of the crap on our beaches was NOT from ships etc, but from locals and visitors, and also that the situation, chemically, was causing local whelks to become wheeminfolk – I jest not].

This Pacific story is sobering for any of you who dream of a surf in the ‘pristine’ water around Hawaii.

Listen again with Maritime Agency – its about 2 thirds through that show…

NWSC Logo

The local club are running a logo competition. To enter email your logo or bring it along to the next meeting on 6th March at Letterkenny Bowling Centre: {encode=”nwsurfclub@googlemail.com” title=”nwsurfclub@googlemail.com”}

Don Munro

Don mailed this week from Oz about a surfing reserve. I’ve attached the brief at the bottom of this, just as an insight into the Oz approach to things. Pretty forward thinking in many ways.

Watersports Bursaries

Creggan Country Park have been on about instructor training courses in watersports – a bursary of sorts, and today (fri) is the last day. Its for 16 and 25 yrs olds who have an interest in a career in watersports. Nominees must live within a neighbourhood renewal area within the Derry City Council. For more information call 02871 363133 or email {encode=”info@creggancountrypark.com” title=”info@creggancountrypark.com”} or you can nominate on their website.

Occy’s Final Speech

Mark Occilupo, the Aussie legend, has finally retired, after 22 years at the highest level. Hes mine and a whole load of other peoples top surfer. Saw him once in Oz at D-Bah. The stories of his comeback, the Pipe Masters, being a Goofy foot, JBay etc. But it’s the guy himself … level and funny. There’ll never be another Occy. Catch “The Occumentary” if you want a good surf movie. Seaweed has this vid tribute.

Friday Afternoon Wave

Today, a mystery overseas wave from local picmeistaaa Shamus Harkin.

Mobile Phone Tips

Finally, here’s a few things that actually work that you’d never know about. Surfers use mobs all the time, get them lost etc. So:

If you lock your keys in the car and the spare keys are at home, call someone at home on their mobile phone from your cell phone. Hold your mobile about a foot from your car door and have the person at your home press the unlock button on the spare key, holding it near the mobile phone on their end. Your car will unlock. Saves someone from having to drive your keys to you.

Your mobile battery is low? Press the keys *3370#. Your mobile will then show a 50% increase in battery. Theres a spare tyre in there that most people never use.

Key in: *#06#. A 15 digit code appears. This number is unique to your handset. When your phone gets stolen, you can phone your service provider and they then block your handset. At least you know that whoever stole it can’t use/sell it either. If everybody did this, there would be no point in people stealing mobile phones.

That’s it.

Catch plenty

m

Again, despite plenty of swell at the doorstep, there were lie-ins (no names), and very little reported locally midweek. But that was after another decent weekend of head high reefage – jAy, Shim, Billiard, Steeze and Ronan all on that. Noticeably lighter now in the evening, and really mild for deep winter. Mild this weekend too.

Again, the weekend is lining up though. The Causeway Coast will get loads this time for sure.

Some other stuff…

Gallery 34

Featuring Conall Maroc, Macklin and jAy pics. Our online is slow today, so 34 is in the queue and still uploading as I type, so check it from “surf gallery” in an hour or so.

Causeway Erosion

There was global interest about the erosion of the Giants Causeway this week – our only World Heritage Site. But I bet if you asked a dozen local surfers, they’d say “what odds? Coasts erode regardless”. It always struck me as a rocky old spot that doesn’t really break anyways … best maybe to leave it to the tourists. Link below on that. Full story.

Uni Surf on Telly

ITV local will be covering the BUSA Surfing Championships 2008, from Fistral Beach Newquay next month, on its new ITV Local West Country Online Channel. You can upload clips etc. Shauna [Ward] was saying she hopes to make it over this year again, and prob a good old squad of other locals too.

Otherwise, here’s the BUSA site.

Bundo

Interesting that Bundoran got panned (again) in the latest Lonely Planet out this week…

“one of Ireland’s tackiest holiday resorts… An assortment of unappealing arcades and fast-food diners”.

Maybe so, review like that might mean a bit more wave space down there at ‘HQ’.

Friday Afternoon Wave?

Can you guys inbox’s cope with a ‘Friday Afternoon Wave’ picture attached to this batch of a Friday? just as a wee set up for the weekend? Maybe the text only format is better, as its pretty small. The batch, inc Wave-pic would become about 250 KB. Its about 100KB at the mo. Anyone mind that?

Stoked

Good to hear from various folks overseas this week.

~ The Proctors on Tour. Derry’s most in lurrrvvve surf doo-et continue down the global road:
“Big hello from Fergus & Jennifer all the way from South America. Over half way through the 3 month trip now. Been surfing in Costa Rica and making our way now to Chile to catch some more waves. Having a ball. Check out the photos. Seeyou in March”

~ Mike in Oregon:
“Nelscott Reef tow-in contest was a good one. We had waves with forty foot faces. One set came thru at 60′. And to add to the drama a Great White decided to come for a visit. It was just curious and left, at least everyone was hoping that at the time. Hope all is well with you and yours. Aloha

~ Colm and Sharon, Derry:
“We’re just heading to Jeffrey’s Bay now should be there in a couple of hours. Me and himself are going to give the oul surfin a lash. Sure it must be easy when your man from the Guinness advert can do it after all them pints.”
PS: himself is 60+, top effort.

~ Mekenas, en route to San Diego:
“We are going to attend the trade show down there, so we won’t have much time for the visiting, but I will still get in the water…. Surf this morning was great, hit the cove….. Long ass lefts! but frigging cold!”

Catch plenty,

m

Good old weekend past – head and peeling at the right spot, but a quiet week all told. Jay, Ronan etc disappointed at the midweek dawnie, but she’s brewing on cue for the weekend.

Apart from that… very quiet. The weekend is looking great if you can brace these, the coldest few months in the Irish brine. Aloha to Macklin and Shiho in Cote D’Ivoire, and Brook and Corey in Hawaii.

Some other stuff…

Bundo Singles Event

Bundo Surf Co are doing a fun thing for Valentines this year. Its being finalised but…

“We are just finalising the Valentines Single Surfers Weekend and it should be up on the site by start of next week. Feb 15th to 17th. 2 nights B&B, one surf lesson and pizza and sangria night, 99euros pps. +353-71-9841968”

Headcases

Check this link in from Gul that made the papers – amazing pics of sponger mates of his getting totally wiped in Cornwall 50+ft.

Shark Diver

Eve saw this story. A 67 year old dude called Wolfgang diving with tiger sharks. Nice.

Big old hit shaping up for the end of the week as well.

Causeway gold there? Lets see…

Ok that’s it.

Catch plenty,

m

Longboarders, are you on it? What a perfect day for surfing here in Ireland. Winter sun, small swell and light offshores. Was tempted, but realised that the sub-zero dawn has all but got the better of me this year. Plus, my heating packed up and big Steve was at hand for a bitta first aid. Hope T-man, Sig etc got some tho … they went for the dawnie.

The various networks quieten some at this time of year. Jan and Feb are the coldest water months here, and the seas empty of sofa surfers, leaving hard core types, passers through and weekend warriors.

Welcome to new folk at home and abroad … Michael, PJ etc. Good to have you. A big hello to the Senegal massive.

Some other stuff…

Yoga For Surfers #2

After last season’s success, Clare Harkin (Mrs Shimmy) was on the radio this week to talk about her new Pilates (5.30pm) and Yoga for Surfers (6.30pm) classes. Next 6 Tuesday nights above Whispers in the Diamond, Derry. Surfers swear by this stuff, and these classes are pretty darn cheap – 4 squid a pop. Majority surf blokes going at the minute, so more surf-gals would be good. Says Clare. .. And say all those blokes.

Rare Turtles

Marine Conservation Society has concerns about rare turtles being washed up off the west coast of Scotland lately. Apparently the strong SW winds have been an unusual factor. 2 loggerheads have both washed up dead and also a Kemp’s Ridley – the world’s rarest species of marine turtle.

Basically they might look dead if you ever stumble on one, but the cold water here that they drift into, shuts them down. So as surfers, the MCS is urging anyone who walks or works on UK or Irish beaches to look out for stranded turtles this winter.

RSPCA 08705 555999

Marine Environmental Monitoring 01348 875000

Portrush Countryside Centre on 70 823600

Live turtles should not be put back in the sea, but placed in a dry, sheltered place until animal welfare experts can collect them for rehabilitation. Obviously-dead or stranded turtles should also be reported to MEM or online at www.mcsuk.org where information and photographs are available to help identification.

SUP Assoc

I know a few of you have been getting your hands on Stand Up Paddle Boards lately. Just noticed that a new UK Association has been set up.

Cois Farraige

Another wee reminder in from Naomi that this new 10-part series kicks off this Tuesday…

“… meeting the top surfers in the country, trying out a huge array of activities, exploring the magnificent beaches and islands along the way. For those of you wondering – Channel 6 is a new Irish TV station that’s available on NTL/Chorus on 106 and on 190 on SKY.”

Aerial Pics

Check this site from Gary McCall. Theres surf pics, but also go in, click on your area, and you get some great aerials of NI, ROI and wider UK. Some aerial pics in particular might help you wire other spots where you already surf.

Jawswatersports

Text update on this from Dunfanaghy in N Donegal. Once saw surfboards in a closed window-front there. Maybe the same place, anyways, the news is – there’s a new shop in the isolated N West. Good to know if youre on the road that way, and needing stuff.

Ok that’s it.

Catch plenty,

m

Another sweet week of unseasonably mild weather here in Ireland – till last night that was – and many finding time and stoke including Gary Helen and Sinead. Great to see Helen in the water again now that baby Finn is settled into life some.

Today is a winter wonderland in Derry. More snow as I write, but the thaw should kick in by teatime. Was meant to try the dawnie today for that short pulse of swell, but couldn’t face it. Motivation needed by the jawboxload. The boys were on it though, overhead and snowed out. Impressive.

Swell-city these days, and plenty more on the cards. Some other stuff…

Macklin in Senegal

Check this. Any of you who met Aussie charger Paul Macklin during his year or so in Strandhill, will not be surprised to hear that hes hard at the African swells in Senegal. He and Shiho are now based there for a bit. One of the main African surf sites has put up an interview with Paul, and a bit of banter about guys dropping in on him.

Cois Farraige

Here’s a heads up on Ireland’s first ever surf TV show. Channel 6 in the Republic will launch Cois Farraige on 15 Jan at 8pm, presented by Jenny Buckley. Repeated Saturdays at 2.30pm. 10 part series. Press launch this Tuesday in Strandhill. I cant get C6 on my telly, but I’m sure many of you can. Heres Steven Lock from the project: “It’s Sky 190 and 106 on NTL/Chorus but that’s only down here (ROI) – we’re going to try and get it on the website though so anyone can get to see it – I’ll keep you posted.”

Quiet otherwise, so that’s it.

Catch plenty

m

A sweet week of unseasonably sunny and mild weather here in the old country, and so many reports of stoke. Last weekend went loco and a few of us took our chance in some big stuff. Check new gallery 33 for that. Midweek, pure sunny and clear with frost.

An unusually antipodean flavour this time – no reason in particular. Check the reports of the attacks in Oz. Surfed both damn spots last season with the Sydney crew and cousin Al in Vic. The shark thing still sends a shudder, no matter how much people talk about the “against the odds” thing. Locally, Burgers is just home from LA. Some big old swells on the way by the looks of it for the Surfin’ Santas too. Full casts below.

Back in 2 weeks. Will try and get a quick update out next week if there’s any serious grind happening. Cheers for all you contacts and stoke this past year from home and abroad. The road continues…

Some other stuff…

Gallery 33

She’s up – a wee early Christmas pressy. Featuring Ger Port, perfect Jay pics, and Cuba.

Solstice

Tomorrow is the shortest day. At last. Damn what a relief. So as of Sunday, we get a few precious minutes more of light each day. Soon enough in 08 there’ll be evening light, and the rip up the road to the brine. For now though, its dark innit. Fancy lights, red wine and the Pink Panther box set (just 20 of your sterling squid) – try as they may – have done v little to offset the annual SAD blues this end. Bring on March.

Japanese Halt Humpback Hunt

It seems that just today, the international pressure – from Oz in the main – has made the Japanese stall their plans to resume humpback whaling. The fleet was already at sea, tho they will still kill other whales, just not humpbacks … for now. Link.

Don on Rip Curl

Senior Aussie surfer Don Munro mails. He’s not happy with the latest plans for a comp at a pristine spot called Gnarloo in Oz.

“Howdy …. rip curl is planning to hold their WCT contest at Gnarloo this coming season 2008, there is a petition going round to oppose it. Sign and send ASAP if you would prefer an untouched area of Australia to remain that way. Or, if you know someone who works at Rip Curl, ask them what they are giving back in relation to what they are receiving from holding an event there? Gnarloo isn’t a secret spot, but it is a fragile area that will need a lot of respect and sensitivity to not be harmed by the circus coming to town …. it’s pillage of a delicate & pristine part of the world at any cost in the pursuit of the almighty dollar… Do what you feel.”

I don’t know the detail, but there’s serious strength of feeling against the comp in the signatories to date. Feel free. Dons entry on the petition is 2497.

Aussies ‘Save the Caveman’

Radical story from the Bondi cliffs. This guy sees himself as a sort of coastal guardian.

That’s it. Happy Chrimbo to all,

Catch plenty,

m

Can you believe these charts? After the madness of those huge swells, she’s settled down to being a pure pussycat. Dawnie today was a real peach – a few peeling walls there, chest. Sig and meself were on that just as the sun came up. The swell has really shaped up, and the weekend is looking brilliant.

The scene has been pretty quiet up here. Get the feeling that people are gagging for a good sesh or two. So gear up, and get on it.

Just me, or is the water staying warmer for longer this winter? 11C at Christmas – class.

Some other stuff…

Gallery 32

Just up. Featuring… Mennie 50ft, Jefferson County, Scullion-cam etc. Take a look.

Wave Riders

The recent 50+ foot big wave riding that made all the news of late are to be included in a new film. Its to be called Wave Riders – a co-production with Derry based Besom productions, and should be released in Spring 08. The film will feature water cinematography and surfers including Al Mennie, Richie Fitz et al. Theres a pic of Al on that big swell in the new gallery (above).

Sea Fever

Another new film, and this one is up and ready to go. I checked the preview and it seems to be a really broad slice across the scene here in terms of history, Aileens, marine life and that. Surfers inc John Mac and Easkey B. Really well made film by the looks of it. Check the preview.

Shaun on Bali

Don Munro’s son Shaun in Oz mails his concerns about the climate summit on Bali, which is concluding as we speak:

“Almost all countries have agreed to cut rich country carbon emissions by 2020–which scientists say is crucial to stop catastrophic global warming, and will also help bring China and the developing world onboard. But the US and its close allies Canada and Japan have rejected any mention of such cuts. There’s still [time] left to turn this around – click below to sign the petition – it will be delivered direct to summit delegates, through stunts and in media advertisements, so our voices will actually be heard. But we need a lot of us, fast, to join in if we’re going to make a difference. Just click here to add your name.

Stoked

~ Clive ‘Burgers’ Connolly – home soon – continues to line up the swells in LA:

“… I know it was big at home last week, but it was also huge over here as well. “BIG Wednesday” it was labelled. El Porto was triple over head, occasionally bigger. What a sight to see I can tell you! I headed out to Sunset and managed to catch a few sets (along with about a hundred other surfers). It was maybe 2 feet overhead… manageable…”

~ Joe and Amy Williams’ Enless Surfari continues

“We have run in to a few problems with the last 6 weeks in central america. Our camper van broke down in Costa Rica and after out staying our visas in Panama managed to fly out only a day later than planned. We then flew to Cuba and was there for a couple of weeks and now we are in Cancun but about to fly back to LA today. We plan to get a car in LA and drive up to San Francisco and then out to Vegas. We then fly to Hawaii for a couple of weeks and then home for new years.”

Really cool people, but I hate them…

Un-Stoked

Mekenas and the Oregon line ups have been up against monumental storm damage of late…

“No power at the market or surfshop yet, probably no power until Tuesday or so…… it has been hell here…. Been at the market at 5am till after dark, making coffee, giving food away, throwing food away, did some barbque’s in front of the market to feed some of the locals with some hot food. Hwy 26 finally opened today, so charles and I drove up to Costco, and bought the last generator they had…. $1000, plus all the extra stuff we had to buy, but atleast we don’t have to boil water on the camp stove and make coffee, Only about 30%of people in town have partial power, tempers are getting tight …”

Brook mails that the town of Vernonia is still under water. Good luck to the many Oregon folk on this network who are working to rebuild after the storms.

Flea Wiped

Carey mails this clip from huge Mavericks on Surfline. Flea got the wipeout of his life on Dec 4th at the infamous big wave spot. Makes you gulp just watching… Nutters.

That’s it.

Catch plenty

m

Another ok week, after another great weekend. Last weekend a squad of us had one of the so called sheltered ‘boring’ beachies up north to ourselves. It was like Hossegor. Clean, fast, glassy, head high walls. A dreamscape. Many on the network scored the same session elsewhere up north.

Colder surely, but the autumn swells are shaping to more than make up for that hames of a summer we had. The big swells that were on some charts have all but dissipated; it just all seems to veer up to Iceland in the next week.

The duskie from the city is still just about do-able for an hour in the water. Depends on your hunger I guess. Damn shame to see the falling light just as the autumn swells line up. How impressive to see the bags upon bags of rubbish gathered from the dunes by surfers and left for collection by the NWSC at a local break. How discouraging though to see them still lying there for weeks, rotting. And statutory authorities call the coasts precious?

Some other stuff…

Surfism – Driven Update

This is the last reminder ahead of next Thursdays film night. All info out. All media contacted. Anyone who wants Nicks superb (as usual) poster, mail me. The more out the better.

Driven – Al Mennies Big Wave Ireland Screening

Sandinos, 25 Oct. Door 9pm. £3

Al and Cotty there in person

2 Short features, Keith Harkin, DJ Mickma

Decent crowd upfert. Lou will be there on the night to film you lot for an online special. Clans Montgomery, Dowughghertay and McCann especially – no mooning. Cool. Signed “Driven”s will be on sale (Xmas pressies?), Al in full profile, good visuals, tunerage, fancy crisps, treats etc.

Barry – Local Info

Barry mails. Newish NW surfer. Keen, like us all, not to get damaged or drowned …

“I took up surfing at the start of the summer… The only difficulty we find atm, apart from standing up that is, is knowing when and where is good, and more importantly SAFE to surf. On his first day out my bro was already caught where he couldn’t get to shore. More recently, we surfed an empty twilight, and surfers were a bit shook to discover where we were surfing had a few bad undercurrents. Is it possible you could include safety information/local knowledge for local beaches. … wee sketches of beaches with experienced vs beginner breaks would be a Godsend. Local knowledge is not always readily available at the beach.”

My guess is – despite any amount of guides and sites that now name the lesser known NW breaks – that there is still strong feeling locally against naming breaks outside Port and Bundo. I want a quiet life, but I’m also keen that the site does as much as possible to keep people safe and informed. Especially newbies. Barry already knows the spots, but hasn’t yet got the local info to surf them safely. Do we let him just dabble about in rips like we did till he learns, or put up some sort of guide in addition to the stuff we already have up? Safety info here.

I’d appreciate views on this… Personally I don’t want to put up a spot guide, as most surfers would still agree that the “learn by going looking” ethos is better than having it all handed to you on a plate. Buts that’s probably only because that was the only option we all had. Whats the balance though? I reckon the dangerous N Donegal spots need public info signs like you see along the Causeway – that way, you see the ocean info when you arrive. Avoids the naming issues too. Perhaps there’s a role there for the NWSC re: safety signs. I am prevented from using bbc platforms for lobbying … Thoughts?

UK Pro Surf Tour @ Port

The Circle One Tour arrives at Port’ later this month. Big event. Big Money. This is a new event on the tour offering 4 grand all told of prizes. That’s the biggest single pot on the tour. Its set for East, but may prob vary closer to the time. A pro womens division has also been introduced, with many of our top locals like Easkey Britton and Nicole Morgan competing. Easkey:

“I am stoked the tour is coming to Ireland this year, this will give me great opportunity to be surfing my home breaks in a competition environment and hopefully do well. The waves are of a different level here … [I hope the tours will return again] for next year.”

Blokes to include Matt Capel etc. Check the main site: www.bpsauktour.com.

NI Coastal Survey

This was an impressive development that went public this week. It’s the biggest ever survey of our ocean floor. From Donegal over to the Causeway. For the surfarists among you, there are implications. Knowing the sea bed is half the battle for knowing the waves, especially the spots that only fire occasionally in the very biggest swells. There’s talk of making sets of “beautiful hydrographic quality charts”. Xmas pressy specials fer sure… Link!

Or ‘listen again’ to the piece I did on Weds with the main survey man. [About 30 mins into that show].

Stoked

Martin Mc has been on it: “amazing time last weekend… a few top names were out: Mennie, Hill, Fitzgerald etc. out there in head high cleaness. Learnt a powerful amount about guts and confidence in big surf. Probably the most enjoyable surf I’ve had so far….”

Alan Doherty Update

I just got the latest from Alans bedside in Mt Sinai, USA. The last Surfism we did pulled about 1000 Euro together to help fund radical surgery to give the local teenager a chin. Hes just come though the second, most radical procedure, and gave it a big “thumbs up” His parents are delighted. Only one more major operation to go at the end of the year. www.friendsofalandoherty.com

Ok that’s it.

Another decent weekend in store.

Catch plenty

m