04/01/2008 | by Mark Patterson
Can you believe these charts? After the madness of those huge swells, she’s settled down to being a pure pussycat. Dawnie today was a real peach – a few peeling walls there, chest. Sig and meself were on that just as the sun came up. The swell has really shaped up, and the weekend is looking brilliant.
The scene has been pretty quiet up here. Get the feeling that people are gagging for a good sesh or two. So gear up, and get on it.
Just me, or is the water staying warmer for longer this winter? 11C at Christmas – class.
Some other stuff…
Just up. Featuring… Mennie 50ft, Jefferson County, Scullion-cam etc. Take a look.
The recent 50+ foot big wave riding that made all the news of late are to be included in a new film. Its to be called Wave Riders – a co-production with Derry based Besom productions, and should be released in Spring 08. The film will feature water cinematography and surfers including Al Mennie, Richie Fitz et al. Theres a pic of Al on that big swell in the new gallery (above).
Another new film, and this one is up and ready to go. I checked the preview and it seems to be a really broad slice across the scene here in terms of history, Aileens, marine life and that. Surfers inc John Mac and Easkey B. Really well made film by the looks of it. Check the preview.
Shaun on Bali
Don Munro’s son Shaun in Oz mails his concerns about the climate summit on Bali, which is concluding as we speak:
“Almost all countries have agreed to cut rich country carbon emissions by 2020–which scientists say is crucial to stop catastrophic global warming, and will also help bring China and the developing world onboard. But the US and its close allies Canada and Japan have rejected any mention of such cuts. There’s still [time] left to turn this around – click below to sign the petition – it will be delivered direct to summit delegates, through stunts and in media advertisements, so our voices will actually be heard. But we need a lot of us, fast, to join in if we’re going to make a difference. Just click here to add your name.
~ Clive ‘Burgers’ Connolly – home soon – continues to line up the swells in LA:
“… I know it was big at home last week, but it was also huge over here as well. “BIG Wednesday” it was labelled. El Porto was triple over head, occasionally bigger. What a sight to see I can tell you! I headed out to Sunset and managed to catch a few sets (along with about a hundred other surfers). It was maybe 2 feet overhead… manageable…”
~ Joe and Amy Williams’ Enless Surfari continues
“We have run in to a few problems with the last 6 weeks in central america. Our camper van broke down in Costa Rica and after out staying our visas in Panama managed to fly out only a day later than planned. We then flew to Cuba and was there for a couple of weeks and now we are in Cancun but about to fly back to LA today. We plan to get a car in LA and drive up to San Francisco and then out to Vegas. We then fly to Hawaii for a couple of weeks and then home for new years.”
Really cool people, but I hate them…
Mekenas and the Oregon line ups have been up against monumental storm damage of late…
“No power at the market or surfshop yet, probably no power until Tuesday or so…… it has been hell here…. Been at the market at 5am till after dark, making coffee, giving food away, throwing food away, did some barbque’s in front of the market to feed some of the locals with some hot food. Hwy 26 finally opened today, so charles and I drove up to Costco, and bought the last generator they had…. $1000, plus all the extra stuff we had to buy, but atleast we don’t have to boil water on the camp stove and make coffee, Only about 30%of people in town have partial power, tempers are getting tight …”
Brook mails that the town of Vernonia is still under water. Good luck to the many Oregon folk on this network who are working to rebuild after the storms.
Carey mails this clip from huge Mavericks on Surfline. Flea got the wipeout of his life on Dec 4th at the infamous big wave spot. Makes you gulp just watching… Nutters.