08/03/2013 | by Alex Dick-Read
Onsale UK: 29th February
Onsale US: 29th March
Hawaii Winter ’07-’08: White Mustang Convertible
Hey, what happened? It used to be all about tough guys tackling giant surf and surviving on stolen pineapples! Now it’s live on our laptops, surf kids in corporate mansions at Pipe, and the surf ‘sucks’ if it isn’t all-time. Has December on the North Shore become a virtual trade show, a surfwear giant theme park? Read this.
Words by Tim Baker; Photos by Sean Davey, Ben DeCamp, Hilton Dawe
Surfing II Corps, Republic of Vietnam
A surfer is drafted and dispatched to the horror of 1960s Vietnam. It doesn’t make Pat Rogan unique, but the beachbreak sessions on commandeered boards, sometimes with Viet Cong watching from the shore, the birth of the SCSA, and the unauthorized Hawaiian luaus certainly make his one of the more bizarre tours of duty.
Words and photos by Patrick G. Rogan
Call Me Bear: Q&A with John Milius
Film director John Milius was once a wannabe surfer kid at Malibu. Later, he made blockbuster films like Apocalypse Now, Red Dawn, and Clear and Present Danger. Early on in this illustrious trajectory he produced perhaps the only Hollywood movie that successfully captures something of surfing’s true essence, Big Wednesday. Thirty years on, the big man talks.
Words by Nik Zanella and Giulia D’Agnolo Vallan, plus Gerry Lopez; Photos courtesy of Bear and the Dan Merkel/John Milius Collection
The story of Ireland, from Freeth to Aileens and Mullaghmore. Here’s a film that set out to tell the tale of Ireland’s unique place in surfing’s culture, starting with the Irish-Hawaiian who helped revive the sport in Hawaii before spreading it to California, and culminating with modern-day pioneers tackling the largest swell ever forecast for the Irish coast.
Words by Lauren Davies; Photos by Bernard Testemale, Mickey Smith, Roger Sharp
Body Language on the Bukit
Observations from a sub-surface perspective from a guy who has spent decades sliding through more beautiful Bali barrels than most surfers score in a lifetime, all of them unhindered by no more equipment than a pair of Duck Foot fins. As a photographer and diary-writer , his observations offer an unusual perspective on Bali’s ever expanding surfing realm.
Words by Patrick O’Leary; Photos by Patrick O’Leary and Hui-Chun Lu
Wandering in this corner of Indonesia is unlike surf tripping anywhere else. Sumba is one of the archipelago’s poorest islands, a world dominated by ancient traditions, where time seems to have stopped, where megaliths and spirit culture remain strong, and where the surfing becomes just a small part of an overwhelming sensory experience.
Words by Brendon Bosworth; Photos by Alan van Guysen and John Callahan
For many surfers Alaska might just be a latitude too far, but as with all extremes, attitude is key. In winter, days are so short that when the waves are pumping (often), you need to run like hell through snow and ice to catch what barrels you can before the light fades. But overcome these minor obstacles and you’ll find an empty, consistent, highlyphotogenic surfing realm, as this Alaskan local shows us.
Words and Photographs by Scott Dickerson
Her Darkest Son: The Ghosts of Romance in Central America
A tale of strange attractions in a land of love and war and lengthy pointbreaks. There are ghosts in this place and spirits on the loose, easily missed by most but as real as a green, backlit barrel for those with the power to perceive them.
Fiction by E.A. McKay; Illustrations by Jeff Petersen