08/03/2013 | by Alex Dick-Read
Cuba: Red Sweat
Although this trip represented an exploration of enemy territory for the American authors
and friends, Cuba is anything but hostile, either to exploring Yankees, or to surfers in general.
The scene in Cuba amounts to a handful of dedicated, board-sharing devotees, desperate for
anything to ride that doesn’t give them splinters. An inspiring trip, for visitors and hosts alike.
Words by Jon Coen • Photos by Ann Marie Coen.
Heavy Duty: Paying dues and finding comfort in San Fransisco’s Ocean Beach
San Fransisco, one of California’s heavyweight cultural powerhouses, is surprisingly marginal in
its influences on surfing. Aside from Jack O’Neill’s huge contribution to water culture, the surf
scene here has been and remains somewhat isolated. Maybe that’s because The Beach, SF’s surf
hub, is so fickle, frightening, hostile and just plain heavy duty.
Words by Dean LaTourrette • Photos by Will Henry, Corbin Pagter, Roy Paul, Jack Wolford.
An Eye For a Tooth
Cape Town, where shark attacks are increasing in parallel with the number of surfers and
swimmers. Lifeguard Greg Bertish saw the dangers more clearly than most and started paying
sentries to keep an eye out. The Shark Spotters scheme took off, gathered funds and now makes
the city’s beaches a little bit safer.
Words by Craig Jarvis • Photos by Alan van Guysen, Chris van Lennep, Ralf Kiefner.
Oilean na Seacht Dtonn (Isle of Seven Waves)
A bunch of Irish and British explorers found waves so frighteningly good just off the Atlantic
coast that they almost refused to publish their story. But the waves break so rarely, usually deep
in winter, on a shoreline so hazardous that these Hawaii regulars took a proper kicking and the
wind barely dropped below hurricane force. So why not, eh?
Words and Photos by Al McKinnon.
The 1st Annual Surfer’s Path Green Wave Awards: The Winners
These awards were just an idea to help highlight positive action in the surfing sphere.
We asked for nominations and waited to see what happened, but simply didn’t predict the
volume of responses, nor the sheer mass of energy we found in the surf world for protecting
coastlines, helping people and generally making surfing’s impact on Earth strictly positive.
Award Artwork by Rick Rietveld
From Somewhere Deep in Mexico
Six girls with style and attitude hit Mexico, chasing pointbreaks, dodging trucks and cooking up
a storm among the cervezas and scorpions. They scored, gorged on the endless lines, surfed from
dawn to dusk and laughed from tail to tip.
Words by Josh Kimball, Belinda Baggs, Mary Osborne, Rebecca Raskin, Liz Clark, Shannon Menzel, Brooke Johnson;
Photos by Josh Kimball, Illustrations by Shannon Menzel.
Turning the Tide
Rick Cameron was an original Indo surf-explorer. His dreams of finding unexplored surf by
sailboat took him to many now familiar places. Later, he germinated the surf travel scene in Indo,
but when the tsunami struck, he and his wife ditched everything and set to work. They haven’t
stopped since, and their Island Aid organization continues saving lives.
Words by Mike Frood • Photos by Jason Childs and Rick Cameron.
Surf, Pulp and Poison in Patagonia’s shadow
Plan: Send a great surfer experienced in environmental action to a threatened surf zone. Get him
to report on what he finds. James Pribram, well qualified for the job, headed to Chile where
pointbreaks and rivermouths are threatened by unchecked, poisonous pulp mills. He found, great
surf, appalling eco-crimes, and thankfully, huge local opposition to the polluters.
Words by James Pribram • Photos by Geoff Ragatz
Green Boards – The Continuum Continuing
This is a subject that just won’t go away, at least until we make a major breakthrough. Thankfully
there are people trying to find ways of building surfboards that don’t poison the planet. There’s
an increasing sense, especially since Clark Foam closed, that the hunt is on. Enrique Gili looks at
who’s doing what, where and how.
Words by Enrique Gili • Image by Brian Nevins