Not the XXL: Wooden Boards at Malibu, 1940s
This is around the time Malibu started getting ‘crowded’ – post-war when the soldiers returned and just wanted to slide on their wooden kook boxes. XXL it aint, but at the time this was as hardcore as surfing got.
did anybody else notice the shot of the surfers going back out? they didn’t prone paddle or knee paddle their wooden boards, they sat down with their feet out front and BUTT paddled!!